Broad Peak

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Broad Peak
Falchan Kangri
ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་
7 15 BroadPeak.jpg
Broad Peak from Concordia
Highest point
Elevation Lua error in Module:Convert at line 1851: attempt to index local 'en_value' (a nil value). [1]
Ranked 12th
Prominence Lua error in Module:Convert at line 1851: attempt to index local 'en_value' (a nil value). [1]
Listing Eight-thousander
Ultra
Coordinates Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
Geography
Broad Peak is located in Tibetan Plateau
Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Location on Pakistan/China border
Location Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Xinjiang, China
Parent range Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent June 9, 1957 by an Austrian team
(First winter ascent 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek)
Easiest route snow/ice climb

Broad Peak (Urdu: بروڈ پیک‎; Chinese: 布洛阿特峰; pinyin: Bùluòātè Fēng),[2] is the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,051 metres (26,414 ft) above sea level. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri (ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་) is not accepted among the Balti people.[3] The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps.[4]

Geography

Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China.[1] It is located in the Karakoram mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from K2. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".[5]

The mountain has several summits: Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak Central (8011 m), Broad Peak North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m).

Climbing history

The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters nor base camp support.[3]

On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum peak (7,360 m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hours.[3]

Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa peak (7,654 m) on June 27, 1957.[3]

In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.[6][7]

In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.[8]

In summer 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000" - Slovenian team (led by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen and without high altitude porters). They tracked the way in deep snow from camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to 7 more individuals from other expeditions. They all summitted on July 31, 2012.[citation needed]

On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent. Broad Peak was the 12th Eight-thousander summited in winter time and the 10th Eight-thousander first summitted in winter by Polish climbers.[9] During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski.[10] On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.[11]

In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi, ascended successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and declared dead.[12][13]

Time line

  • 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.[3]
  • 1957 First ascent [14] by Austrian expedition
  • 1983 First ascent by woman, Krystyna Palmowska
  • 1984 First one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak (solo) by Krzysztof Wielicki in 21,5 h
  • 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio[15]
  • 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.[16]
  • 2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran.

2014 Hunza Expedition to Broad peak made the summit on 23 July 2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his village who reached to 8000 m.

See also

References

  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  2. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  4. ↑ Richard Sale and John Cleare, Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains: The History of the 8, 000-Meter Peaks, The Mountaineers, 2000
  5. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  6. ↑ „Broad Peak 2007“ Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler, June to August 2007 (German)
  7. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  8. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  9. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  10. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  11. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  12. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  13. ↑ Rescue attempts for Iranian climbers http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/2013/07/broad-peak-new-route-iranian-climbers.html#u3
  14. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  15. ↑ http://broadpeak.org/en/broad_peak.php
  16. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.

Further reading

  • Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
  • Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
  • Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0-89886-408-9
  • Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterward by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
  • Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8
  • Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
  • Jacek Hugo-Bader, Długi film o miłości. Powrót na Broad Peak, Polish published by Znak, Cracow 2014, ISBN 978-83-240-2993-8

External links

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