Tracta (dough)

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Tracta, tractum (Ancient Greek τρακτὸς, τρακτόν), also called laganum or lagana (Greek: λάγανον) was a kind of drawn out or rolled-out pastry dough in Roman[1] and Greek cuisines.

What exactly it was is unclear:[2] "Latin tracta... appears to be a kind of pastry. It is hard to be sure, because its making is never described fully";[3] and it may have meant different things at different periods.[3] Laganon/laganum was at different periods an unleavened bread, a pancake, or later, perhaps a sort of pasta.[4]

Tracta is mentioned in the Apicius as a thickener for liquids. Vehling's translation of Apicius glosses it as "a piece of pastry, a round bread or roll in this case, stale, best suited for this purpose."[5] Perry compares it to a "ship's biscuit".[6]

It is also mentioned in Cato the Elder's recipe for placenta cake, layered with cheese.[7]

Athenaeus's Deipnosophistae mentions a kind of cake called καπυρίδια, "known as τράκτα", which uses a bread dough, but is baked differently.[8]

Some writers connect it to modern Italian lasagne,[9] of which it is the etymon,[10] but most authors deny that it was pasta.[6][11]

There is a modern Greek leavened flatbread called lagana, but it is not clear when the name was first applied to a leavened bread.

Notes

  1. τρακτὸς, τρακτόν "dough drawn out or rolled for pastry," Henry George Liddell, Robert Scott, A Greek-English Lexicon, on Perseus
  2. Charles Perry, "What was tracta?", Petits Propos Culinaires 12:37-9 (1982) and a note in 14
  3. 3.0 3.1 Andrew Dalby, Food in the Ancient World from A to Z, ISBN 1135954224, s.v. 'Pastry', p. 251
  4. Andrew Dalby, Food in the Ancient World from A to Z, ISBN 1135954224, s.v. 'Pasta', p. 251
  5. Joseph Dommers Vehling, editor and translator, Cookery and dining in imperial Rome (1936, reprinted 1977), p. 127
  6. 6.0 6.1 Charles Perry, "Old Non-Pasta", Los Angeles Times March 05, 1997
  7. Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found., section 76
  8. Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae 3:79
  9. Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  10. Vocabolario Etimologico Pianigiani, 1907, s.v. lasagna
  11. Clifford A. Wright, "The History of Macaroni" [1]