Saunags

Saunags (Livonian: Sǟnag, Russian: Саунагс or Саунаг. Other names: Saunagdtsiems, Saunaga, Saunaga Ciems, Saunaguciems) is a populated place in Kolka parish, Dundaga municipality, Latvia, located 10 km from the Cape Kolka, within the borders of Slītere National Park. Name derived from Livonian Sǟnag, meaning pike-perch (scientific Latin name: Sander (genus), Russian: судак), a local fish. First mentioned in documents in 1310, it is the oldest of the twelve Livonian villages on the Līvõd rānda - the Livonian Coast. It consists of two parts - Saunags and Dižsaunags (from Latvian - Great Saunags), the later being the oldest and more preserved one. Located along the coast of the Baltic Sea and formerly inhabited by Livonian people or Livs.

History and local landmarks

Saunags is positioned on crossing of parallel going via Goteborg (Sweden) and meridian going via Turku (Finland), both are important ancient regional trading and cultural centres. Although away from large towns and always scarcely populated, the coast always played the strategic importance in many wars, because of its proximity to Irbe Strait, the main sea route to Riga. Marine maps are dotted with sunken ships, going back to medieval time and as recent as World War II. During the Crimean war British navy landed here and burned down Russian Empire military outpost in Saunags. During the First World War Russian navy placed large number of naval mines off-shore here (this was the first time in Baltic navy history application of so many mines in one place). Many German ships were destroyed here. During the Second World War German guns located here allowed to control the Irbe Strait (the main battery was located opposite at Saaremaa island).

After World War II, this area become the Soviet western border. There is a former site of USSR border guards tower, projector light and small security house (the only one still standing). The straight passage, located behind the dunes parallel to the coast, connects Dižsaunags with the former lighthouse (presently light is dismantled and tower turned into just Saunagciema navigational sign) in the direction of Vaide. It runs along Akacijas estate and few abandoned German and Soviet military bunkers and was also used as military supply route during World War II, and, after the war, by Soviet border guards, as well as coast guards servicing the lighthouse. The coastal narrow gauge railway was planned here linking Pitrags and Mazirbe, but was left unfinished during World War I - see Livonian coast). This historic forest road is still used occasionally by local residents.

According to a local legend, there is a Medieval burial ground on the outskirts of the village in the direction of Vaide, however archeological works conducted in 2012 did not find any burials there (except just some pets). Next to this site lay the ruins of the first Soviet military base built by troops of Baltic Military District soon after World War II.

Curiously, Saunags is also home to great lime tree (Niglini estate) and group of great black alder (Alnus glutinosa) trees (Kalnbunkas estate) - http://www.dabasretumi.lv/Raksti/GEnMelnalksni.htm (in Latvian). There is registry in Latvia listing all great or largest trees and this is the only location of two types of great trees in one place.

Village can be accessed from the main asphalted road or via forest road connecting Saunags with Vaide and Pitrags. There are timber signs on the forest road marking borders of Saunags.

Former and present landowners

Most of land in this area, as well as neighbouring areas, for many centuries until 1918 belonged to the Baron Osten-Sacken family, a fairly important local Baltic-German noble dynasty. Their main seat was Dundaga castle (former name Dundagen). After 1905 upraising local fishermen were gradually allowed to acquire land plots and their houses from the baron.

In 1731 Dundaga manor book stated three estates in Saunags - Buncke Pritiz (present name Kalnbunkas), Melcke Ans un Walke Angeck. According to local elders, it is likely that Bunke Pritiz is the first and the oldest settlement on the whole Livonian coast. It is supported by the fact that this is location of the oldest trees as well as that the house itself is located at the highest point in the area. Curiously, the nearby forest opening, plot of land between Jaunpakalni's sauna building and Akacijas (now part of Niglini estate), was well known area for all local Liv celebrations for centuries (the opening gradually overgrown with trees over last 20 years).

In the past, Saunags was mainly populated by fishermen and farmers; today, historic wooden properties are mainly used as summer houses (or dachas). Akacijas estate (former Rupnieki) is the site of former local fish processing and salting plant owned by Kārlis Tilmanis, well known canned fish brand in Latvia between two World Wars. Tilmanis family fled by fishing boat to Sweden in 1945. Only an ice storage inside dune and skeleton wooden pier still remain. The other large estates are Jaunpakalni (include former Pakalni, Kalnbunkas and part of former Niglini), Krumini and Niglini. There is a small private ethnographical museum on Jaunpakalni estate, which include restored old boat "Pakalni" used for fishing for over 50 years in local waters (viewings are by appointment only). Former fishermen barn, there all chandlery was kept, as well as winter repair wharf, were located simmetrically on the left and right side accordingly of Kalnbunkas' private approach road. Only foundations now remain, although there are plans in place to re-construct them together with the timber pier.

700th anniversary

In 2010 Saunags celebrated its 700th birthday (since first mentioned in documents in year 1310). To mark this anniversary some local summer residents followed old Livonian routes by sea on motor yacht "Kolka" from Riga via Ruhnu and Saaremaa islands and Kolka to Saunags, where they disembarked from anchored boat. Memorial sign "DIŽSAUNAGS" was placed on the top of a sand dune nearby, between the two access roads to the beach.

See also

• Saaremaa
• Livonian people
• Livonian coast

1. Travel notes and photos [1] 2. Saunags short history [2] 3. Kolka site [3] 4. Cape Kolka [4]