Princess line

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1878-1880 Princess line dress. V&A, CIRC.606-1962[1]
A princess line dress is shown on the left. The other dress has a clear separation between bodice and skirt. September 1905

A princess line or princess dress describes a woman's fitted dress or other garment cut in long panels without a horizontal join or separation at the waist.[2][3] Instead of relying on darts to shape the garment, its fit is achieved with long seams and shaped pattern pieces.[4] A rarely used alternative name for the Princess line was French-dart-line dress,[5] after the specific darts used in its construction.[6]

History

19th century

The princess line is popularly associated with Charles Frederick Worth who first introduced it in the early 1870s.[2][7] It was named in honour of the famously elegant Princess Alexandra.[7][8] By the late 1870s and early 1880s the Princess dress was a popular style. It is considered one of the first "bodycon" (body-conscious) fashions due to its extremely closely fitted design, presenting the figure in a natural (or at least, corseted) form undistorted by either crinoline or bustle.[8] 'Princess-line polonaises' were worn over long underskirts.[9] The Princess line was also popular for young girls, who wore it with a sash or, if slightly older, over a longer underskirt.[10]

20th century

The Princess line was a staple of dress design and construction throughout the century. In 1951 the couturier Christian Dior presented a princess-line based fashion collection which is sometimes called the 'Princess Line,' although its official name was Ligne Longue or 'Long Line'.[11]

21st century

The Princess line remains a popular style for wedding dresses and a design staple for both day and evening dresses.[2][4] More recently, the design principle has been consciously applied to men's garments, which generally do not have waist seams anyway.[12]

References

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